In this new year, Audemars Piguet wanted to “unveil” numerous cards… In the editorial office there was the great run to be able to win the article and here we are... but, I'll tell you more, given the numerous releases, I opted to divide the "first releases" of the semester 2023 of the collection and the grand complications.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic 37 mm
Audemars Piguet wanted to delight the start of the first semester presentations with an 18 gold Royal Oakkt of 37mm in diameter with a Turquoise stone dial that carries a real one historical legacy being a stone used for more than 3000 years in the field of jewelry and beyond. For these dials, a Turquoise stone from Mexico was meticulously chosen with dark veins that make each individual watch even more unique.
The new generation of 37mm Royal Oaks has a thinner case, down from 9,8mm to 9mm. Changes have been made to the bracelet to improve its ergonomics with sharper edges on the bezel and bracelet, but nothing has compromised the classic look of the icon.
The thickness of only 0,75mm hides the Caliber 5900 underneath, presented for the first time in 2022 on some 37mm references. This movement combines a slim thickness of 3,9mm, a high frequency of 4Hz and a power reserve of 60 hours. The mechanism is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback which reveals the 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight and the refined decorations that embellish the components, such as the polishing of the corners, the vertical satin finish, the Côtes de Genève finish, the veining and the chamfering .
ref. 15550BA.OO.1356BA.01 List price: 62,000 EUR.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” bleu grainé
You must have surely experienced one of those nights, immersed in nature, with a clear sky scrutinizing the stars... Well, this is what immediately reminded me of this dial with seed recreated through the use of PVD. Audemars Piguet takes its inspiration from the model created in 1992 on the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak collection, this time improving the texture of the dial by creating more points of light/shadow and presenting a model entirely in white gold.
This new model is powered by Caliber 7121, launched in January 2022 for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, marking the birth of the 16202 line. Caliber 7121 is the result of five years of research and development and indicates hours, minutes, seconds and date with a 55-hour power reserve achieved thanks to a larger barrel than that of its predecessor. The date features an energy-saving flat mechanism equipped with a new patented quick corrector.
Faithful to the traditions of Haute Horlogerie, the Caliber 7121 features prestigious hand-crafted decorations such as Côtes de Genève, circular satin finish, scroll finish, circular veining and sharp edges.
ref.16202BC in white gold and bleu grainé dial Exclusive edition only for Boutique Audemars Piguet List price: 78,000 EUR
Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph 42 mm in ceramic
Since its creation, the collection Royal Oak Offshore it dresses in a wide variety of materials, such as titanium or forged carbon. In addition to steel and gold, these innovative materials offer the perfect balance between technical innovation and design, elegance and robustness. This time AP dresses it in ceramic and with covers, “only” the eight white gold screws on the bezel and the titanium caseback are saved.
The patterned dial Petite tapisserie it modernizes a lot the style of a watch which in my humble opinion should be given more consideration as for the choice of material. This total black look measures: 42,00mm in diameter, 15,5mm in thickness and 100m of water-resistant, all combos that make one of the brand's symbolic chronographs extremely wearable.
Caliber 4404, that's the heart that beats inside, with column wheel and flyback function. The titanium caseback with sapphire crystal allows you to admire the workings of the chronograph column wheel: when the reset button is activated, the hammers, directed by a lever, strike the central cam to reset the wheels and the chronograph hands. The wearer can also admire the 22-carat rose gold oscillating weight engraved with the initials AP, which is based on the historical versions of the Royal Oak Offshore. The movement also features refined finishes: Côtes de Genève, pearling, circular satin finishing and polished bevels.
ref. 26238CE.OO.1300CE.01 List price: 84,000 EUR
Audemars Piguet and the new ones “QUEUES 11.59” in steel
Six new models of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Automatic and Automatic Chronograph measuring 41 mm in diameter introducing steel to the collection for the first time. Four models are produced entirely in steel, while the other two combine the central case in black ceramic with the bezel, lugs and case back in steel. These timepieces also usher in a new aesthetic that enhances ergonomics and legibility, as well as new dials with a motif specially developed for the collection.
These six new 41 mm case references inaugurate a new dial printed with a pattern developed especially for the occasion, composed of concentric circles that create a particular structure, this model offers a texture never seen before on a Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet dial. which improves its readability. Developed by Audemars Piguet in collaboration with the Swiss craftsman guillocheur Yann von Kaenel, this model gives the collection a new signature. For the printing of the dials, Yann von Kaenel created original prints, which were engraved by hand. The pattern made up of waves that move towards the outside of the dial is dotted with hundreds of tiny cavities that allow you to play with the light. The dials were then colored using PVD in shades of blue and green, and with a galvanic process for the beige shade.
These techniques make it possible to preserve and enhance the reliefs created during the decoration, creating plays of light with the design. The latter also create a chromatic effect that gives the illusion that the dials are smoky even when the hue is uniform, such as for the green and blue models.
The six new models house the latest generation movements: the 4302 caliber with seconds and date display and the 4401 caliber, integrated automatic chronograph with column wheel and flyback function. These two movements are equipped with a patented mechanism which guarantees stability and precision in setting the watch. With a larger diameter of 32 mm, they also ensure better chronometry.
Caliber 4401 features a vertical coupling system that prevents the hands from jumping when the chronograph is activated or stopped. A patented reset mechanism ensures that each counter hand returns to its original position. The sapphire crystal case back allows you to appreciate the multiplicity of refined decorations that adorn the two calibres, as well as the brand new oscillating weight skeletonized in 22-karat rose gold dedicated to the collection.
CODE 11.59 List prices: EUR 25,200 (time only), EUR 34,800 (chronograph)