In 1977, Vacheron Constantin introduced the reference 222 to mark the 222° anniversary of the brand. Designed by Jörg Hysek, the 222 was a high-end sports watch with a tonneau-shaped case that was water resistant to 120m, a notched bezel and an integrated bracelet. Reinvented in 2016, under the auspices of the artistic director Christian Selmoni, the collection Overseas is the answer of Vacheron to the luxury sports watch. What's interesting to note is that the ultra-thin perpetual calendar made its own debut in 2016 with the relaunch of the line. Overseas. A somewhat unexpected complication in a family of luxury sports watches.
For this 2020 edition of Watches & Wonders, Vacheron Constantin presents theOverseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, a timepiece once again unique, presented this time, with a stunning skeletonized display, a true watchmaking feat, housed in a luxurious rose gold case with an ultra slim height of just 8.1mm.
Nothing has changed regarding the case, its proportions, layout or the beating heart of the movement powered by the prestigious Caliber 1120 QP di Vacheron. The novelty of this 2020 edition, as already mentioned, lies in the skeletonized dial. The movement parts are always hand-finished, in line with the Maison's long tradition in the haute horlogerie sector and are combined with parts treated in gray. NAC to give a contemporary face in line with the sporting spirit ofOverseas.
The case, crafted from 18-karat rose gold, has not been modified and measures 41.5 mm and boasts an ultra-slim height of just 8.1 mm. With its polished hexagonal bezel and contrast brushed case and strap, the watch's exterior elements showcase the House's traditional high-end finishes. The layout of the perpetual calendar is identical to the version with the “closed” dial and is organized around four sub-dials. The ring at 12 indicates the months, which alternate, however, in a strange order. Typical feature of Vacheron and its movements QP, this 48-month sub-quadrant indicates the months of four years, including the months of the leap year. The days of the week at 9 o'clock are contrasted by the date at 3 o'clock and the moon phases are set at 6 o'clock. The rose gold hands and applied hour markers are embellished with superluminova and there is a capitular ring for the minutes with blue arabic numerals and black indexes.
A much appreciated complication, the perpetual calendar movement, caliber 1120 QPSQ, (awarded the prestigious Geneva hallmark, is an automatic caliber that oscillates at 19.800 vph / 2.75Hz and offers a power reserve of 40 hours), which powers this watch appears in a new guise and now reveals all its intriguing mechanical parts beneath the sapphire crystal crystals mounted on both sides of the case. Skeletonizing is an art in itself and consists of hollowing out the components without compromising their reliability. And when it comes to skeletonizing a movement QP already complicated in an ultra-thin format, there are very few watchmakers qualified for this demanding task.
Since the movement is on display, special hand-made finishes have been carried out on all parts, in addition, some parts of the mechanism are treated with an electrolytic process. NAC which gives them a contemporary anthracite gray color. Another touch that helps make the timepiece even more contemporary is the subtly veiled moon phase cover made of sapphire to reveal the second moon. Finally, for the first time in the collection Overseas, the rotor is perforated to highlight its Maltese cross design, emblem of the maison.
Il Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton it will not require any adjustment of the calendar or moon phase indications until March 1, 2100. Achieving this level of performance in a caliber made up of 276 components and a height of only 4.05 mm indicates the value of the watchmakers of Vacheron.
THEOverseas It probably mounts the strap change system do-it-yourself simplest on the market and comes with three interchangeable straps: a luxurious gold bracelet with satin-finished Maltese cross-shaped links and two additional straps in blue alligator leather and blue rubber. Price 130.000 EURO.