Three lineages born from the vivifying pencil of Gérald Genta, three archetypal Maison, three inextinguishable charms. The three champions of haute sport watchmaking, here in their most exclusive declination: what is your choice?
For 2020 Perpetual Passion will involve you in targeted surveys, with the will to measure the pulse of your passion and understand what you really like. The skimming will be generated by your own multimedia pinches as per our questionable judgment.
For the first contest on stage we avoided inserting the Royal Oak Ultra-Slim in platinum, which from SIHH 2019 moistens the dreams of enthusiasts and, when it arrives on the market, will do the same with the aspirations of collectors. But the metaphysical finesse of the RO Ultra-Slim still cannot be dragged into the square and here is noble metal ready to wear.
Among the three sporting breed perpetuals on the page (which you can sift through in detail at this link) we ourselves would not know which one to prefer. The mechanical finesse and the understatement ofOverseas Ultra-Thin seduce a subtle taste, but the charismatic recognizability of Nautilus e Royal Oak it is also a powerful magnet for connaisseurs. Certainly you will not find a rapper with the Vacheron on his wrist, for now, but we make the watch and not the others. Patek has chosen only one configuration for its 5740, with a white gold case and bracelet: patrizia. Also in white gold and with a slate dial, the Overseas is sublimated, boasting a bracelet of exquisite manufacture, the sublime memory of which still tickles the skin. For the Royal Oak we chose pink gold in dialectic with the Great Tapisserie of the dial in a sparkling silver, which already creates addiction to the digital view, while live it is simply irresistible.
Thinking in meaner terms, price and accessibility say Vacheron, marketability Audemars, status Patek Philippe. The use is comparable, with the possibility for everyone to manage with ease even formal registers, excluding ceremonies, and disengaged raids. You, who are caught by the tail only by the most disinterested of lust, which one would you like on your wrist?
Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Ref.5740 / 1G-001
Il Patek Philippe Ref.5740 / 1G-001 Nautilus represents the first major “complication” in the Nautilus range, as well as the thinnest perpetual calendar currently produced by the Geneva-based maison. Inside the slim case the caliber contrasts 240 Q self-winding by Patek Philippe, powered by the 22k gold micro rotor and engraved with the emblematic Calatrava cross. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement has one Thickness of only 3,88 mm. It maintains a minimum power reserve of 38 hours and beats at a frequency of 21.600 Vph.
La 18K white gold case measures 40mm in diameter (44,05mm if crown is included) and one Thickness of only 8,42 mm. The octagonal bezel frames a sunray blue dial with the emblematic horizontal embossed motif of the Nautilus collection. The baton hands and applied indexes in white gold, all treated with Super-LumiNova, are joined on the dial by three perpetual calendar dials: month and leap year at 3 o'clock, date and moon phase at 6 o'clock, day of the week and indication of 24 hours At 9am. Sale price €113.800 .
ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR rose gold 26574OR
The reference currently in the collection is the 26574OR, available in steel, pink gold and yellow gold (we omit the ceramic and the reference 26586 for this article). The very famous octagonal case, in declination from 41 mm with integrated bracelet houses the renowned cautomatic alibro 5134 (derived from 2120 Jaeger leCoultre base) ultra-flat, with 40 hours of power reserve, frequency of 2.75 Hz and strictly manual finishes.
The phases of the moon need a correction approximately every 120 years, as is the case with many watches today, and the finely decorated and skeletonized oscillating weight rests on a peripheral guide to minimize friction and wear. The overall thickness of the watch is only 9.5mm.
The dial of this watch is very symmetrical and balanced and the color contrasts allow good legibility in all configurations (blue or white dial).
At 12 o'clock it is possible to see the counter reserved for the month with the leap year indication inside it, at 3 o'clock there is a counter for the date that is opposed to the indication of the day of the week placed inside a counter at 9 o'clock. At 6 o'clock we can find the indication of the moon phases, a traditional astronomical complication that is always present on a perpetual calendar. Finally, a third sphere in addition to those dedicated to hours and seconds indicates the number of the week in which you are. The adjustment of the watch is carried out by means of the special push-buttons recessed inside the case. This choice guarantees a water resistance of only 20 meters, so it is preferable to stay well away from water when wearing this watch. Selling price €98.800
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Perpetual Calendar 4300V / 120G-B102
Elegant, ultra-thin, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas is the first perpetual calendar in the Overseas collection. The watch is equipped with the caliber QP 1120 ultra thin (4,05 mm) and does not need to be adjusted until 2100. The power reserve is 40 hours, beats at a frequency of 19.800 Vph.
Although the module of this movement was developed in-house, the movement is not strictly in-house. The QP 1120 caliber is in fact based on the historic 1121 that powered the Vacheron Constantin 222, with an additional perpetual calendar module built on top. Caliber 1121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial design by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1967, famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Vacheron caliber 1121 remains one of the thinnest rotor self-winding movements in the world.
La 41,5mm white gold case, just 8,1 mm thick, frames the translucent gray lacquered dial, lightly punctuated by blue accents. The calendar indications are: month and leap year at 12, date at 3 and day of the week at 9. The fascinating moon phase display is positioned at 6 with the Vacheron Constantin logo just below it. Selling price €96.000 .